Velocity Racing

All sold... Thanks all

Hi all,

Long time no see! Anyway doing a bit of a shed cleanout on the weekend and found some old Evo III bits... To start with..

1. 1 Set of Denso 720cc injectors -SOLD

2.Evo 3 510cc (yellow top) injectors SOLD

Cheers
Lewis

Sold!

Should also add that 'propper' anti-lag works by injecting fuel and igniting it after the piston has passed TDC whilst off throttle this producing no torque to the crank but gives lots of exhaust flow into the turbo. The other thing is also does is randomly cut the ignition allowing fuel to bypass with out being ignited by the spark. The extra fuel plus the ignition cut (the misfire part) mostly helps with cooling everything but also gives the pops and bangs, but its the exhaust flow that really keeps the turbo spooling.

 

The other side of this is that the ALS needs air to work, so you need to either have some sort of air bypass solenoid that allows some airflow into the engine or a fixed throttle setup that say means when your off throttle the throttle butterfly stays open between 10-20% allowing air into the motor to help burn the fuel and also to help cool.

 

The side effect of this is the fixed throttle is that 10-20% means at idle the engine will be reving to say 3k+ So to fix that the ecu runs in a cyclic idle or rotational idle mode where the ignition is randomly cut to bring the revs down giving that supper lumpy idle (see vid below), the software then slowly phases that cut out as you increase the throttle (say 3-5% above the fixed position)..  It works well and sounds cool but makes the car super tricky to drive at road speeds!

 

It works well for motorsport applications and I really notice the response difference with the ALS on and off, but between the drivability and wear and tear on everything its probably not advisable for road use.

 

hope that's of some use

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well I can give a bit of first hand expirenice on this...

I snapped the front bar testing a few months ago, and couldn't source a replacement in time for our next state round, so decided to run without the front bar. I had a chat to Murray Coote about it pre event and he suggested if it felt no good or was too snap oversteery to either disconnect the rear bar and up the shock rebound stiffness all round or leave the rear bar alone and soften the front.

In the end I just left the shock settings in the normal spot and for 80% of the time it felt just like normal. It did however occasionally want to be a bit more tail happy in some faster corners, but it was more annoying than scary, but it was not always consistent. A few times in medium speed stuff it seemed to take a bit more to catch the slide than normal but overall was drivable. I like a some what neutral to understeery car so it didn't really suit my driving. Didn't really effect stage times either as we set the usual times against our main rivals.

On Tarmac I would think it would just make the front end feel a bit soft, unless you have a big heavy rear bar I doubt it would be an issue. Might even help turn in a bit too

FYI here is some incar without the front bar..

It will bolt into your diff housing no worries. The easiest way to make it work is to do a 4 bolt conversion then it will work correctly with the VR4 RS shafts. Some of the SA boys are trying to work out another way to make it all work.


Price drop on the diff.. Now $500 including post aust. wide

They are flogging off standard parts as ralliart.

The propper group n (ralliart) part numbers are available from ralliart m
Ie.. http://www.ralliart..../parts/vii.html

because its designed as a gravel rally car
The front has more suspension travel, and as a result the guards are larger. If you were to adjust the ride height to drop the front down more that would start to play with the dynamics and not in a good way. You would be essentially be raising the rear ride height vs the front,(changing the rake), which will increase oversteer.

I just took some pics under the dash, notthe best, but I think you get the idea... (I hope)

decided it may have to go.....

 

Built for gravel , but is very easliy converted for tarmac rally, hillclimb, circut etc... Built in '08 and only seen about 500km of cometition use!  Would make a perfect hilclimb or time attack beast... just needs a 2.3 and some wide guards! 
  

• Fresh Evo body shell, fully seam welded & strengthened
• Comprehensive tower to tower cage including seat mounts
• Fresh motor – 5 rallies since rebuild, Turbo - 4 events since new.
• Various stainless lines and speedflow fittings (oil cooler, catch can etc)
• 3” mandrel bent exhaust with PCD engineering 3” dump pipe
• ViPEC ECU – Currently running unrestricted on united E100 fuel (aprox 180kw)
• Group A (switchable) Anti-Lag & rotational idle
• PPG close ratio, straight cut Dogbox
• Ralliart front mechanical LSD
• Ralliart upgraded centre diff
• Rear RS plate LSD
• MCA gold series struts – external canister
• All brake & fuel lines - stainless tubing & braided lines – mounted in cabin
• WRC style hydraulic handbrake
• Adjustable brake bias adjuster
• OMP WRC suede steering wheel
• Terratrip 202 & Map light

Other
8x Oz Racing Rallye 15x6 gravel wheels   Or  4x 17x7 Tarmac wheels with Hankook semi slicks

Light pod with 4x Cibi Turini’s lights (not currently connected)
Carbon roof vent
Group A mirrors
Alloy fuel tank guards

 

$19,000 – Including spares Some minor work required, otherwise ready to rally.
Very, very regretful sale as the car is awesome fun to drive, especially unrestricted. Not getting as much use as it should.

Registered on SA dedicated rally rego.
Large spares package includes 34mm restrictor and relevant tune, lots of doors, bonnet, bootlid & wing, side skirts, intercoolers, radiator, arms, brake pads, hubs, turbo, sump guard (slightly damaged),and heaps more.
Contact Lewis via PM or email lewis.parin@live.com.au

 

What happened to restoring it to its original condition and livery? You can't put that wing on it!

looks good mate. You cant go past a Jspec VR4 ... Think Ive spotted you leaving Mike's in it before.

are you sure its not a ClubSpec? ie this.. http://www.tmraustra...cle.php?ref=101 which is about $13k + a base Evo 10 (so $65k ish)

That one you linked to on My105 is a full TMR built Evo X RS dedicated showroom tarmac rally car with a weld-in FIA cage, Ralliart Diffs and Motec ECU and diff controler and other bits to match the $110k price tag. Its very much not a road car as the Evo 9 and 10 RS's can not be road registered (and the bits to match the $110,000 price tag)

The Club Spec's that TMR have been building seem like a great way into a club car if you dont have the ability or expirence to do it yourself..

P.S the 'Dreamer' selling the white one on My105 is Alan Heaphy.. ie TMR

Both cases silverstone FTZ R-Spec (semi's)

not sure the pics will help but...

with the 215/45/17's



With the 235/40/17

The 1-4th PPG box for Evo 1-3 & VR4 retails at $6600+ GST plus another $1400 + GST for 5th gear if you want it.

That gets you input and intermediate shafts, with all the gears, a billet c/diff housing, an a billet selector for 3rd/4th. Everthing else you use in the box is standard components.

Its an awesome box, Its the best change we ever made to the Evo.. and i firmly belive that a dog box is a must in any competition car.. no so much for the strength (which is a nice bit of insurance), but more the driveability for things like positive gear selection, left foot braking & when your chasing that extra second clutchless shifting..

PPG as a company are fantstic, they sponsored us last year and were really great to work with....