Rockabilly

Baz I told you before. Best is an RVR SSG or HSG TCU

You get manual/auto mode switching on the fly

My extra pivot switch is the Twin auto maps

Programing is for max downshift speed lockouts per gear

WOT shift speeds per gear

Minimum upshift speeds per gear at 5% throttle behind Granny

Downshift speeds per gear with no throttle

Both maps can be programed as required by Miodrag

My twin map switch & man/auto is on my console, but you could hide it

As Miodrag said one for daily driving & one for strip

Or you could have one for daily & one that can't be driven or stolen

Much better than a push button switchbox that has firmware delay etc

But don't ask Miodrag for crazy maps for a standard box

Aldo

My Airtrek bonnet. Mazda 3 MPS on top of an Airtrek & open at the screen

GTA is an 8 on top of a GTA 7 & open at the screen

Behind the pump is a brown fibre shim about 4mm thick

If it's not on, the main shaft will move in out 4 to 5mm

That will cause hubs to unengage 1 to 2 clutches

Always check that the shaft has 1-2mm max float only

Like an ECU, but it's the brains for the auto box

Was good to drive your Evo 7 with E85 & some Boost

Need that kw & torque in my GTA Auto

Aldo

That is the plan. Just going to get it running to obtain shift points required. Unless you think it can be done prior?

I'm planning to rewire the blue wire to my ecu also. At WOT it will trigger the relay which will activate the blue wire mod giving full pressure. Off wot it will retain the standard pressure that the tcu is targeting.

Let me know your thoughts.

Pressure rises with rpm. Your WOT pressure is your max. Adjust that valve body allen bolt to a 3mm gap.

A resistor on the blue wire is to make the PCS stop bleeding slightly earlier.

eg: At say 3k std the PCS bleeds off for 2sec & zero at 6k

Ad a resistor prob makes it bleed for 1.5sec at 3k & >>> zero at 6k

TCU remapping the min upshift points higher like mine = gear shift speeds as if you were driving a Manual mild

Aldo

DIY Barry   RVR tcu is safer for your std auto.

Aldo

Burp burp burp burp

Aldo

^^^ I shoulda posted yes sorta expensive. Forgot to say that.

Aldo

Sounds expensive.....?

Jamo OD 4th doesn't normally fail alone.

The owner can check the OD clutch pack at the drivers wheel.

If it's completely shagged, he could just try fixing that. Might be lucky.

But now his 2nd band is burnt as well while using the OD 4th.

Usual diagnosis is the 2nd band has broken = box out to fix 2nd & 4th.

That's why I weld s/s bracing on my 2nd bands & line them with kevlar.

Aldo

You'll notice you have no 2nd gear as well. You have 1st, 3rd & reverse

Your 2nd gear band has broken (typical) & also your OD 4th will be worn now

Aldo

Hi Ben, I haven't removed an RVR flex from an RVR. One on the convertor side is enough.

The RVR flex can be put on either way. The 2 offset presses end up making it flat anyway.

Aldo

I saw your car & IC the other day. IMO it will build solid pressure Quicker than a taller IC.
Chris was very proud of the setup & made me have a look.
On/Off throttle it will jump to your set PSI. Thumbs up from me!!
Aldo

To start with
You need a gear shift for rego.  B&M etc shift sticks need an engineer cert
D N R P are all manually selected even if you have a button/paddle gear selector
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A buttons or added paddles Shiftbox has pros vs cons
-Shiftbox Pros
1>2>3>4 Programable automatic wot upshifts for each gear individually 5k to 12k
4>3>2>1 can be set at a minimum of 3500 up to 7k for downshift protection
^^ Meaning if set to 3500 you can't downshift from "any gear" if revs are 3500UP
Handy to use buttons or paddles or any momentary activated device to change gears
-Shiftbox Cons
Needs around 3 secs to turn on/boot up
Boots up in D/3rd only
Only has a D auto 1st gear via buttons/paddles, not a physical 1st gear for hard launching
^^ Meaning it doesn't engage the low/reverse brake clutch for the ^^ hardest launching
Has a 1 sec delay flatspot if you downshift hitting wot
^^Same as wot button up mid gear & it changes delayed. Even if used on my boxes
The delay is in the firmware of the curcuit board. Not the box bleeding pressure off
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An RVR TCU with a Switchbox combined also has it's complications
In D turn the Switchbox on & it will boot up after 3 secs
Now you can button up/down or paddle if you fit some
Beware if you are in 4th in TCU "Man or Auto mode" @ 110kph & you turn on the Switchbox,
you get downshifted into 3rd after the 3 secs bootup. You have to button up for 4th
If the Switchbox is on & you pull 2nd with the shifter, you will be in limbo until the
TCU boots up again in man or auto mode. That's a bitch when you hit a corner & pull 2nd.
Turn off the Switchbox & you get an instant 3rd in TCU "because 3rd uses no solenoids"
BUT you can't adjust the 4th delay with the RVR TCU with Switchbox.
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Switchbox combined with 12v man mode only externally powered shifting
If you pull 2nd with the shifter with the Switchbox on in a corner = instant 2nd no probs!
Push back into D & D works no probs. But wait 3 secs before you button up to 4th
The 4th button on the shifter being on or off means nothing to the Switchbox
BUT if your 12v externally powered setup is just a copy of the Kiggly pic, don't leave
4th turned on on the shifter. If you turn the Switchbox off in D with 4th on & hit wot,
you can burn your 4th overdrive clutches. Complicated to explain why. PM if you need info.
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Switchbox combined with My 12v externally powered setup can be screwed/adjusted for more
delay into 4th. The delay box for upshifts to 4th you can set from 2 to 10 secs. Set 5 secs.
That way if you forget 4th is on AND you forget the Switchbox is also on, when you upshift
2nd to D, you get D/3rd ONLY. Complicated with the 3 sec bootup with the Switchbox.
If you leave the upshift delay box set at the minimum 2 sec delay when shifting 2nd to D &
you have the Switchbox on, it will hit D/3rd, then 4th 2 secs later, then back to D/3rd 1 sec
after that because the Switchbox booted up after 4th came on. So you can avoid this.
That's why My 12v externally powered setup has an adjustable 4th delay.
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12v externally powered manual mode only (Without 4th Delay)
Cheap way of shifting an auto, but can be dangerous if 4th is left turned on!
WOT upshift 2nd to D with 4th on = Engine revs up waiting for the 2nd band to grab = kills 4th!
Downshift D to 2nd with 4th on = "1st gear" (both solenoids are on) Sideways in the wet
^^ Do that at 80kph D to 2nd = 1st gear at 8000RPM. My daughter did & nearly killed my VR4 Monte
I forgot to tell her my power/ecc button was rewired as a man/auto mode switch.
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12v externally powered manual mode only (With my adjustable 4th Delay)
Cheap way of shifting an auto manually & is pretty much Idiot Proof
The 2 sec min delay 2nd up to D/4th & D/4th down to 2nd stops any damage if 4th is left on
Upshift & downshift using the shifter. User responsible at what revs. Up to ecu eng rev limiter!
Instant gears up/down. Manuals don't like 80kph into 1st. Autos also. Use common sense shifting.
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My Best choice, RVR TCU (Aldo/Miodrag eprom edit & power/ecc switch for 2 maps)
Man mode holds gears, has eprom downshift protection limits, wot to eng rev limiter
Won't kick back or up gears if you nail wot
Minimum upshifts in eprom still apply in man mode. 25>2nd, 38>3rd, 55>4th
^^ eg: If you upshift to 2nd at 10kph, it will stay in 1st until 25kph etc ^^
2 sec delay D to 4th when shifting 2nd to D & 4th is left on. You get 3rd for 2 secs.
2 sec delay D to 2nd when shifting D/4th to 2nd & 4th is left on. You get 3rd for 2 secs.
Downshift protection 4th>3rd 148, 3rd>2nd 105, 2nd>1st 63 < Only for my box builds!
^^ eg: If you downshift into 1st from D/3rd at 80kph, you get 2nd. Slow down & at 63 = 1st
Auto Mode, my D min upshifts at min throttle are 25>2nd, 38>3rd, 55>4th. Same as Man Mode.
Engine braking slowing to a stop with no throttle is 4th>3rd 45, 3rd>2nd 28, 2nd>1st 15
My WOT ECC Mode 6k shifts, WOT Power Mode 7.5k shifts. Can be higher WOT in Power Mode for Drags
Downshift protection 4th>3rd 148, 3rd>2nd 105, 2nd>1st 63 < Only for my box builds!
*IMO Best Drag shifts is this TCU in Auto mode in Power mode.
Shifter in 1st, stall it up & go, while at WOT tap into 2nd mid 1st gear then tap into D
The auto mode WOT settings will "shift each gear" & your tap upshifts is just to allow the gears
This physical 1st gear launching is to make the low reverse clutch engage. < Strongest 1st gear.
If you use 4th as well, back off 10% throttle just before WOT shift time & then hit WOT in 4th
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A standard turbo auto can have it's eprom remapped by Miodrag, but only min upshifts & eng braking off pedal
The min upshifts are great for holding the right gear & eng revs just right for slow traffic in auto mode
The WOT upshifts & downshift protection limits stay std for a std box.

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Aldo

Bump..This RVR should be sold whole, not in parts

Aldo