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I've been a lurker for a while, but since I've signed up and started posting now I figured I should start a build thread.
Basically it's a Libero GT with the factory 4G93T with evo bolt ons. It was originally my brothers car which I brought off him when he moved to the USA. Between us we've owned the car since 2004 and built from stock. I don't plan on ever selling it.
There aren't many tidy Liberos left in NZ, or if they are they're tucked away in the garage like this one so I am determined to keep this car in good condition.
It's been off the road for the last 18 months as it is uncertified for the front & rear Brembo conversion, along with the adjustable coilovers in the front. Hoping to have it back legal for summer!
The most recent work done was installing a bunch of GReddy & HKS gauges I sourced from Yahoo Japan.
Cool looking car man
What's done to it?
Also WTF is the Asian chick saying when you put the keys in the ignition? Sounds like some self destruct sequence has been activated lol
You have 5 sec to order fries with that.....beep, beep, beep......
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries. ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming. thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys. Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.
Thanks everyone. I will keep this thread updated with my progess.
First step towards getting this car legal again was taken yesterday when I booked it in for its pre cert check next Tuesday. This will give me a good indication of things I need to fix before its ready to under go the full certification process.
In the mean time a few more photos for the thread:
Also the last dyno sheet - from 2011 but the tune hasn't chaned since. Internally stock 4G93T with TD05 on 1 bar, Evo 510's / AFM / ECU / Walbro etc. Pretty simple set up.
The pre-cert check went well. Only issues I need to sort is play in the drivers side inner tie rod and the bonnet release doesn't work (through laziness I have mannually reached inside the grill and popped it by hand for about the last 5 years).
Will be sorting these this/next week then wheel alignment and time for cert...
I am in the middle of certing the car ATM, and modifing the bumpstops is one of the items I wish to discuss with him. Ultimately I want to lower the rear another inch, the side bumpstops aren't too much of a problem, however the centre one on the diff head only has an inch of clearance as it is, I think cutting and shortening the bracket it mounts too will be the way to go.
It already has an adjustble panhard rod to deal with the diff moving over:
Things done so far for cert, twin driveshalf hoops:
Fire extinguisher with metal bracket and mount:
Custom sway bar mounts and ball joints to fit the stock sway bar to the Evo 4 LCAs:
Also finally got round to replacing the broken bonnet cable :
Thanks to the stance movement, in order to prevent people running stupid amounts of camber you must provide a wheel alignment sheet showing that car has camber set up within 0.50 degrees of factory guidelines in order to pass cert. Fair enough, however in the their wisdom they decided to apply this rule to toe and castor as well. This is where things turned to custard for me as when I got my alignment 2 days before inspection I found I had 3.5 postive front castor, the factory specs allow for a max of 2.5 (I assume it is becuse of the Evo 4 LCA's, the specs are even on both sides, nothing is bent).
Both the guy doing my alignment and the guy certing the car both agreed that the more positive front castor the better, thus they apealed to the LVVTA (govt body) to allow an exemption for me. Fortunately they have granted one, so after a couple of weeks of messing around I am back on the road towards making this thing legal again.
In the mean time I have been doing a full SMD LED conversion. This is something I will be doing in all my cars from now on, the difference over power hungry, ugly yellow incandescents is awesome. In my experiance, it is okay to go cheap on the small wedge bulbs used in the interior, however for the larger bulbs such as for indicators I would reccommend spending some decent coin and getting the bulbs with the highest lumens possible. The indicator bulbs I am using are 18 SMDs, the reverse lights are 27 and the difference is very noticable. You can get ones with up too 45 SMDs per bulb, thiis what I will get next time.
For anyone else wishing to do the conversion, the bulbs required are:
Dome Light 32mm festoon
Map Lights: 32mm festoon
Cluster: T5 and T10 wedge
Keyring Light: T5 wedge
Park Lights: BA9S bayonet
Rear Licence Plate: T10 wedge
Front and Rear Indicators: 1156 bayonet
Side Indicators: T10 wedge
Reverse Lights: 1156 bayonet
Rubbish video showing the crisp on/off action of LED indicators: