113 replies to this topic

[penngwyne]

Good info thanks. Just too damn cold to be enthusiastic.
Will try replacing the bearing first and then do the dye test.

I think it was working OK just making a noise.

Incidentally also too lazy (and cold and sick) to fix intermittent squealing belt which I now suspect is the power steering pump as it's the only one I haven't retensioned yet.

 

Sick by going to upullit in Adelaide and getting wet and cold getting bits for the 525i Bimmer 

 

Also incidentally isn't it amazing the difference it makes to your fuel consumption when you've forgotten to replace the air filter and you can't see light through it?

[penngwyne]

Bit of an update
Actually managed to unbolt the A/C compressor and get the pulley off without taking the pipes off

Getting the pulley off required a block of wood and a hammer 'coz the pulley had locking compound on the inside of the bearing.

I guess this stops the bearing from rotating and stuffing up the alloy nose of the compressor

Putting it back on was hard to not get the fresh locking compound where it shouldn't go and the pulley got a little bit stiff but it came good with a bit of turning

I had the system tested, a new condenser and re gassed and it seems to have stopped making the noise

 

Found my oil leak too, it was the rubber half moon plug which is now an alloy one
NOTE:  the one I got from Meek was very tight and broke the inside edge off when I tapped it in so I probably should have filed a bit off the inside to make it a bit looser

anyway a good coating of Wurths sealant with the remaining edge on the inside fixed the leak

[penngwyne]

I forgot I had another oil leak because I hadn't tightened the rocker cover bolts enough and a coolant leak that got worse and worse

 

Of to my friendly Naracoorte Auto Services to pressure test the radiator and definitely loosing pressure but nothing falling on the ground
David (part owner) said look at the heater hose at the back, and that is where the coolant was just peeing out due to one of those wire hose clamps

And the coolant was going on top of the trans. Replace both hose clamps on the engine side and problem now fixed.  Happy about that!

 

I'd have some trouble without these blokes as they let me use their workshop for the occasional slab of Bundy Red or Coopers light.

 

The 5 series has been off the road since March having various stuff done
Among which was dismantling the brakes, cleaning out the brake cylinders front and back and replacing the boots and seals

When I saw the rear brake cylinders full of horrible brown gunk I had a pang of conscience as I don't think I have replaced the brake fluid in the RVR for a llloooonnnnggg time.

[penngwyne]

Latest issue handle on sliding door broke and I couldn't open it from outside

 

If this happens to you you need to know the inside trim is in 2 parts and you only need to take the TOP piece off

There is a Phillips head screw to take off in the inside trim on the back half of the door
Can be accessed with the cover off the mechanism and a dumpy phillips head driver between the body and the door

Then take out the trim clips, (its really best to have proper trim clip tool) and take off the top trim

One of the rods you can see has a plastic clip looks like it is screwed onto the rod, you can carefully squeeze the end of the clip and push it out (mine is blue)

The other rod can be more easily accessed when you take out the handle.

 

10mm 1/4 drive socket with extension is good

 

Take off, but don't disconnect, the inside handle. You should now be able to get to the three bolts holding the outside handle in place

 

When you take the handle off you will easily access the 2nd rod. This one DOES NOT PUSH OUT OF THE HOLE

Undo the clip where the rod passes through it and then pull the rod out of the hole leaving the bushing in the handle. 

(Keep the handle you might need the bushing as it may be a separate part)

 

I guess assembly will be the reverse as I haven't got my replacement yet

 

My new handle is coming from Parts Souk , via fed ex from the UAE.  Shipped on 10 July expected on my doorstep tomorrow (13th) before 5pm.. I will be impressed

About USD 30 with freight about USD 15

[bazeng]

This is a common issue. There are 3 I've seen to date with this problem. Thanks for sharing.

[penngwyne]

Handle arrived Monday am, all the clips etc came with it, The white bush for the 90 degree bent rod is already fitted 

I didn't use the other one as I didn't want to mess with the adjustments

 

Be careful not to drop the bolts into the door  (I didn't but it was close)

 

The soft part of the door card (where the phillips head screw goes) was bit of a pain to clip into place, but skill and swearing managed it

[penngwyne]

I'm amazed I haven't posted in this thread since July 2017
HSGR has been running well (and still is)
I didn't have any son's car in my shed for a while
The BMW went to Adelaide and I was rejoicing at the amount of space I had
2 weeks later I have a Galant VR$ again (that should have been a 4 but I liked the look of it)

 

 

Quote from 26 June 2013
"I have decided not to pull the thermostat housing off just yet. I might have fixed it while re doing the water pump.
Wont be able to tell if I have fixed it until I get all the hoses and stuff back on."

 

I should not have been so lazy!

 

Although it's not a huge leak it is there, as the red stain on the bolt head underneath shows
Hopefully it is the seal to the thermostat housing and not a leak in the pipe going across the front of the engine
It will be a job for the next TB change coming at 200K (I'm up to 170K now)
Starting to look for parts soon

 

Probably going to need new shock absorbers/struts front and rear too

 

Been thinking about getting something a bit more modern and a bit more fuel efficient

BUT

Can't find anything that I like as much as the RVR to drive and I HATE the look of some of the modern cars (eg Kona)

Wonder if there will be electric conversion kits with super efficient batteries in the future?
With small 40 Kw motor for each wheel would be about 200 HP to the road. A range of over 500Km would be good too.
(50 Kw per wheel  works out to about 270 hp. Sounds easier than all the engine and gearbox work needed.)

Just imagine the acceleration!  If we want to keep up with electric cars at the traffic light this has to be the way?

 

Electric Conversion??  Topic for a new thread in the future??

Edited by penngwyne, 29 August 2019 - 03:40 AM.

[penngwyne]

Haven't posted for a while
The leak in the previous post was because I was too clever and got original spring clamps when I replaced all of the hoses.
That was silly.

Replaced the O ring in the thermostat housing and all of the spring clips on the hoses with worm drive clamps. No more leaks.

It was really the clamps (I think) but while I was in there I thought I may as well do the o ring.

Flushed all of the red stuff and replaced with green stuff. 

 

Was running well until one day BANG! Car jumped sideways and stalled OMG!

I tried to start it but it made a horrible rattle.  NNOOOO!  Tow truck job.

Up on the hoist next day-----Harmonic balancer had failed and the pulley outer was flopping around between the engine and the side of the car.
Not enough room for it to fall off luckily.  My Mech got onto his computer and I had a new one next morning.
Fitted new balancer and everything was OK.

Very lucky I was going around a corner in town and wasn't on the highway I guess!

Edited by penngwyne, 18 January 2021 - 01:54 PM.

[jack be nimble]

I thought the bang was going to be valves when you said harmonic balancer. Phew!

[penngwyne]

I thought the bang was going to be valves when you said harmonic balancer. Phew!

Late reply sorry bout that Jack

I've heard they don't go bang when that happens, they just stop, Still bang is not a good sound.

I've decided to just keep HSGR, as I can't see anything modern I want to drive.
Maybe when I get too old to drive it will be a collectible car. I see 1988 VR4's coming out of Japan for $12,500 recently.

 

Just replaced the front disc pads and rotors on Friday. it was worth doing. Again my friendly mechanic let me use a hoist while his apprentice was away.
Pleasant day without too much stress. Cleaning off the rust was the most time consuming bit. Replaced the brake fluid too, as I was feeling a bit guilty about that. 

 

Next job is to buy some new suspension struts as the front LH one has let go. Probably get KYB's as they were OEM.

Then 200.000 Km service later this year and replace timing belts etc as per usual, plus maybe a couple of oil seals.

 

Still has the occasional lifter rattle maybe I'll replace them too, or is it a case of not original without the lifter noise?

 

Having had some computer problems I'm going to have to reinstall my ASA but windows10 or whatever they call it now doesn't seem to respond to the crack

I'll have to put it on my Linux computer as I'm sure i had it on before and it worked OK.

Going to have to go and read the instructions on how to do it. (it was along time ago)

 

The VR4 is out in the rain ATM as the shed has a Kawasaki ZXR 250 having a timing chain replaced. (for a few too many months now)

Anyone know how to re-rivet a tiny morse chain that has to rotate at 19,000 rpm? I have no confidence in my ability to do that just now.

 

Hope everyone is coping with lockdowns etc and staying COVID safe. Get the Vax as soon as you can. Had my second AZ couple of weeks back.

Keep safe and don't lick anyone.

[jack be nimble]

Split the cases and do the chain without cutting it. Or .. I think there is a tool available to do the rivets.

Regards fuel economy... Working EGR is worth a couple of mpg when on cruise.
Also, using gears to slow down utilises fuelcut on decel. That saves a little fuel too.

[penngwyne]

Happy New Year Everyone.

Got an unexpected present from my son at Xmas. Daughter (living at home) Positive, me and wife negative, but still had to quarantine. All of us (except son) double vaccinated.

Today is first day out since Xmas after a negative rapid test.

Rules changed again Monday but I thought FxxK it I have things to do

 

Split the cases and do the chain without cutting it. Or .. I think there is a tool available to do the rivets.

Regards fuel economy... Working EGR is worth a couple of mpg when on cruise.
Also, using gears to slow down utilises fuelcut on decel. That saves a little fuel too.

 

Got brave, borrowed a tool and riveted it. Case split was too hard and as cases are factory matched a bit hazardous if you get it wrong. There is no gasket of course.

I'm trying to work out why it's always been so hard to start at the moment

 

EGR I must look into.

 

Currently replacing all the struts with KYG excel G which is what was on it, the rears even had mitsubishi part numbers.

Did rears with car on ground. Love the RVE clearance. Luckily dust covers were still flexible enough to get off and back on without tearing.

Got Nolethane bump stops for the back, which fitted after trimming a little off the tops. (Bloody hard stuff too)

Waiting a KYB SB 5057 boot and bump stop kit for the fronts.

Trish at SA suspension Centre was a great help. as was Beth at KYB in Melbourne, in tracking these down.

 

Forgot to mention I replaced the starter motor as it was still turning very slowly after replacing the battery.

Brand new one so I hope it isn't causing this!

I now have an intermittent fault where the car will click when the key is turned but the starter doesn't go.

It starts eventually (so far) after several attempts but it's a worry.

Battery terminals cleaned and spotless and tight. (first thing to check always for electrical faults)

Next step might be the starter relay?

When you think about it the car is now 25 years old so got to expect a few bits failing?

 

Ah well I guess I'm slowing down too and I must expect a few things to wear out eventually

[penngwyne]

I think I found my starting problem on the motor end of the ground strap.
Turns out the bolt wasn't tight
Cleaned the connection and put some grunt into the bolt and haven't had a problem since.
Cheap fix.

[penngwyne]

Coming closer to 200,000Km

Now trying to find a timing belt kit with tensioner. (It's that time again)

OMG the genuine tensioner is $535 from the dealer, (don't think I'll do that)

 

Too many choices out there in Gates and Repco world.

Of course Gates don't seem to know RVR, and certainly not HSGR. Repco think they do.

 

I'll do the water pump as well, of course.

 

Need to do a service on the A/T,  at least another fluid change. Last one was 100,000 K

Question what ATF can I run in the A/T that is the equivalent of SP2 (which Mitsubishi don't have any more)

 

Does it have a filter that needs replacing? (never been done)

 

BTW the starter hasn't skipped a beat since my last post.