Evo-00x

https://www.tc-v.com...ncer_evolution/

EVO 1 RS (CD9A from 1/1992): 2,208,000¥
EVO 1 GSR (CD9A from 1/1992): 2,738,000¥

EVO 2 RS (CE9A from 1/1994): 2,308,000¥
EVO 2 GSR (CE9A from 1/1994): 2,898,000¥

EVO 3 RS (CE9A from 1/1995): 2,378,000¥
EVO 3 GSR (CE9A from 1/1995): 2,968 000¥

EVO 4 RS (CN9A from 1/1996): 2,498,000¥
EVO 4 GSR (CN9A from 1/1996): 2,994,000¥

EVO 5 RS (CP9A from 1/1998): 2,598,000¥
EVO 5 GSR (CP9A from 1/1998): 3,248,000¥

EVO 6 RS: (CP9A from 1/1999): 2,598,000¥
EVO 6 GSR: (CP9A from 1/1999): 3,248,000¥

Back with some latest pics. Tried running two AWD coupes at Sydney Jamboree yesterday but it rained all day. There was a break in the weather, they tried drying the track, but after just one practice run on wet surface it started raining again. Day cancelled. Oh well.... at least I got to find out I need to upgrade the clutch now. Some pics...

 

 

Walbro 485L/hr e85 compatible fuel pump. This is the one with the different relief valve for higher pressure flow rates. Part number F9000274 + kit.
Overall length with covers off is 13.5cm
Note: Walbro pumps are now stamped with TI Automotive on them.

What? I come back and this shit is still getting built?   

Well mine is a Gvr4 6 bolt block, and the aircon x-bracket that bolts to the block is evo 1-3. Aircon compressor is evo 1-3. Belt tensioner is Gvr4 because using a modified Gvr4 front engine mount (timing belt side), Aircon lines are half stock GSR (hardlines between aircon dryer and condensor) and the rest from the 4G63 Evo 1-3. Mine also uses evo 3 engine and interior looms so the aircon electrics just plugged straight in.

You wouldnt need to stroke it to make that power. I've done it with the 2L and GTX3076R, Kelford TX272's and 1200cc injectors (could have done it with 1000cc but didnt have an on hand at the time) and made 450hp atw at 28psi on 98 octane fuel. No E85 or stroker needed, so there's room for improvement. Yes, definitely get the valve springs with high lift cams, actually get them anyway. Our cars are 20+ years old and the springs are tired and less llikely to float when you start putting the boost and rpm in it. 

See my signature the last time I touched my car a couple years ago.

Great to see that your venture into making the mounts has taken forward in leaps and bounds. Congratulations

PS: I like vibrations. Vibrations keep the girls happy and the world a happier place to live in   

 

The Australian Motoring Enthusiast Party (AMEP) stance on vehicle exhaust noise and emissions amendments.

I am honoured to be part of the AMEP team and to have my contribution toward AMEP's stance on vehicle exhaust noise and emissions published on their website. I had written much more than this, especially in regards to vehicle emissions testing using the IM240 and EPA tests for engineering approvals, but that strategy may have more weight once we are in and demand a change of the current legislation. Yes, we do have teams of dedicated volunteers fighting for our rights behind the scenes. Members also have their say in group discussions and new legislations tabled not only toward vehicles, but the economy and regular political affairs also.  

Guys, please read this article and think about your vote this coming election.

Vote AMEP Senator Ricky Muir as your number 1 choice below the line in the upcoming Senate election and be sure to put the Greens and Liberals last!!!.

Please as a favour to me (Rob) and yourselves and fellow enthusiasts, please read an extract of what I have been fighting for us for years in these links.

Those with the XForce Varex exhaust systems take note - We are fighting to have the laws amended and legalise the use of variable exhaust valve technology for use on our cars!!!

http://amep.net.au/Emissions

http://amep.net.au/e...st-technologies

 

Emissions / Exhaust Technologies

 

 

STRENGTH IN NUMBERS

 

Being a Member plays a part in ensuring the future of the motoring enthusiast lifestyle.

We invite you to become a member and help us spread the word...

AMEP is a volunteer organisation and your $20 membership fee helps us to continue giving motoring enthusiasts and like-minded people a voice in government,

and provides the Party with the funds to cover administration costs.  

Everything from CC Lancers, RVR's, FTO's, CE Lancers, UF Nimbus etc got the roof rust issue.

The recalls were kept on the quiet.

The glue was in use from 1993 to 1998. Same thing happens to Proton M21 coupes which were made til the year 2000.

The problem is, it rusts under your headlining. By the time you see it bubble on the top of your roof it is already too late.

Remove your headlining and prepared to say FUCK YOU MITSUBISHI!!!   

If it hasn't happened yet, it will happen. Heat, condensation, condensation from the interior light on cold mornings etc creates moisture. On the underside of our headlinings we have a spongey foam that absorbs water and stays soaking wet forever which also doesnt help. The glue used was shit and had some kind of chemical reaction to it which corroded the metal too.

It was a BIG Mitsubishi fuck up.

My advice to anybody who hasn't got roof rust yet is to check it out anyway sooner rather than later. Its a bit of a delicate operation so as not to deform your headlining when removing it. Get inside there and check. Then spray the hell out of it with Tectyl spray. Inside all the holes in the ribbings, where the front and rear windscreens are, everywhere. Make sure you have a plastic sheet or tarp underneath to protect your interior from any drips. It's going to smell for months but it's worth it in the long run.

My white 1993 GL CC Lancer coupe doesnt have roof rust, but then again its lived most of its life inside a garage. A few years ago I didn't take any chances so I got up under there and painted it with fuel tank sealer paint first to create a hard glass-like sealant, then tectyled the hell out of it. It looks like shit but you wont ever see it again [hopefully]. 

Good stuff.... but that turbo is way too small for the 4G64. You need bigger.

The stock OEM TD04 and TD05's were phucked for cracking turbine housings. A lot of guys just ended up buying the GTP Pumps turbine housing to replace the OEM units. They are heaps better. Link here: http://www.gtpumps.c...e_housings.html

Also if you are using an EVO turbo manifold, the TD04 would have a smaller hole in the turbine housing where it mates to the turbo manifold.

Keep the REBORN 20G and use it with a GT Pumps turbine housing. That's what I'ld do

Good to see more coupe's coming out of the woodworks as they are very cheap and affordable cars. Plus they look sexier than the EVO I-III sedans

* Yes, all your Mitsubishi part numbers listed above are correct as I just double checked them.

* Yes, the spring you can see through the keyholes on the underside is the 5th gear spring. So now that I can see the pic in IMGUR, you should install your new REVERSE spring with the notch at the keyhole in the 8 o'clock position and run it past the 6 o'clock position to end at the 1 o'clock position. Basically you are making the Reverse spring run in the opposite direction to the 5th spring.

 

EDIT: I've just made it easier for you to understand using your picture. Install the reverse spring as per the green line in this pic. 

 

Fkn love it      . Job well done.  

Chop chop time.

Here's some pics to look at.

As air gets cooler it slows down anyway so there will always be a pressure drop regardless of what intercooler you use, but the amount of pressure drop makes a difference. 2psi pressure drop is the usual acceptable amount for intercoolers. But intercooler design can make it much worse.

Then we have temperature drops. Ultimately you would want an intercooler that can get air through the entire core with minimum turbulence. See the first and 2nd pic with turbulent square end tanks = no good.

With big ass intercoolers as in pic 3 with the inlet and outlet on the bottom or say about 1/3 of the way up the intercooler, the thermal imaging pic shows that air basically only moves across the bottom half of the intercooler with the area above it basically acting as a heatsoak and dead weight for most of the time.

The tapered design works well - much like the intercooler SWTGSR is using in pic 4.

With the bigger intercoolers you can have a splitter/ baffle made in the end tank which helps split the air and redirect some of it upwards into the upper cores as seen in pics 5 and 6.  

Intercooler design is best left to the professionals who do R&D and test the results. Anything from entry and exit angle to end tank design or staggered cores etc all plays a part in the balance between cooling and pressure drop for whatever intended use of the vehicle.   

It looks smaller than the OEM EVO icoola but the core on this new one appears much thicker, so it will cool quite well.

I like my icoolas to fill up the entire hole in the front bar, but that's just me lol