leadfoot

if you have a working fuel pump cradle you can use a cc lancer carby or injected tank

well their website says otherwise but if you wana find another supplier here's the critical info
 

Diameter [mm] 276 Height [mm] 45 Thickness [mm] 24 Minimum Thickness [mm] 22.4 Inner Diameter [mm] 69 Weight [kg] 6 Number of Holes 4

but they are defs in their 2017 red master catalogue
https://www.dba.com.au/download/test/

as is the proton gti front but they have a 4x100pcd
 

their 2017 part catalogue on their website still lists them you're looking for dba 402 or dba 402s

https://www.dba.com....ct&pid=99001415

Mechanical safety aswell looks identical to yours.

The cable release went bad and the arm locks failed the welds broke the arms swang free and the vehicle fell. The installer and seller both came up on charges from oh&s ill grab photos of how it failed this arvo.

Make sure there is no more than 5mm spread from bottom to top ie the distance at the posts on the base is the same as the top.

Your could be great and serve you well for years nut i just cringe everytime i see the happ brand considering how close one cane to killing my father. (Thus my warning) in saying that there is a risk with any hoist. Currently have a bendpak and the difference in build quality between the two is massive.

i ran a composite on arp studs (std style) and pushed through from a cylinder into the water jacket on 20psi currently on an ebay spec MLS and compression is better than ever at 230psi across all 4

can you not just VCU eliminate and stay open center dif and force 50/50 split all the time?

gsr is AWD the car you mention are FWD unfortunately none will have provision for rear axles your actually beter off looking into 5 stud conversion more rim choices and can use evo 4+ hubs

unplug the ISC then set the BISS and trottle plate stop and TPS with it as close to 1 ohm as possible but not on of over (if it's a 4 wire) under 1 ohm = throttle close wire live tells ecu it's at idle over 1 ohm tells ecu throttle is in use.

if you don't unplug the isc when you adjust the BISS you can go to far so unplug ISC and then use BIS with timing locked to get a base idle of 850+- 50 rpm this should also be done at operating temp

if you are going manualized you'll wana just in the automatic mania sub forum on here and speak with aldo

the same auto boxes used on 63's will bolt to a 93 (but you will need the matching transfer and rear diff)
you'll then need a flex plate most likely one from a auto 1.8l lancer. you may need a custom flex or torque converter depending on if the fwd flex matched to the converter that would be std to the gearbox.

from there it's wireing or going manualized.
you can get an auto engine loom from a automatic proton m21 (rare as hell though) not sure where the one i worked on has ended up though i could ask if you want it.

it is

it's just a paper style gasket as long as it has the right size holes you should be fine.

i have a brand new universal turbo smart one if you want to buy it. i got it to go on my td05 hopeing i could use buts i already had and couldn't let me know if you want it

i might be doing a part run to the sunshine coast tomorow so may also be available to collect have a pm to me by tomorrow with a phone number if i'm doing the run i'll call you

it's just a banjo bolt 3mm hole i beleive.