bazeng

Hey shayne. Come to the meet with your car and I'll give you one free =)

We will wait for the day when you convert that car to a 4G63.

You will then be one of us again =)

 

Good purchase!

They look like a nimble car and you can't beat Honda reliability.

Oh by the way, the original sale fell through. Finance issues at the time. He ended up eventually buying another one from Sydney and has called me to state that he still would have preferred mine... Oh well. I get to enjoy it for a it longer...



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So, it's been a while...

The car is pretty much complete.
Stock restored vehicle.
Everything working extremely well for a 21 year old car.

Some photos I had taken recently attached.

It's now for sale for anybody interested.

I've got too many toys to play with so this doesn't get driven much. Once a fortnight? I could put it in storage but I'm sure I can build another one without feeling the guilt of destroying a perfect example of a GTO.

Remember, I do have a other NA auto GTO shell I can build in future =).

Anyway, enjoy the photos.

Thanks for viewing this build and it was a fun journey.



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The plugs need the correct torque to work as designed. It's all about heat dissipation to the head. Not enough torque = not enough crush and potentially contact surface area not as per original design.

I'm a bit fussy as I've always worked in the engineering area and everything is somewhat needed to be controlled and quality checked.

Check out the NGK faq page. All explained there.

Good stuff on sorting it out without any fuss.

Please keep us updated on what you think the root cause was.

My guess is possibly oil supply to the head?

Bling!

Also some photos of the port work done by Head Spec in Clayton, Melbourne.

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Sump studs upgraded to 8mm to assist the girdle and sump attachment.

High performance surface finishing assist with the micropolishing of the cams, crank, rods and oil pump.

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I'm at a point where I'll leave particular things to the people who do these activities for a living. Engine machining is one of them. Paint and panel + Dyno tuning also.

I've learnt that sometimes you can't do it all yourself and if you try to, you'll probably never get it done in a timely manner.

My website currently has links to some of the businesses I've used but it does need an update.

On topic, I do need a wheel alignment contact. I've been told Essendon tyre power is good..... Is that where you take yours Shayne?

Hey Shayne, good question.

I've thought about this and honestly, I feel comfortable to leave this for Mike and Frank @ Headspec to do. I did my previous one at springy motors (plus the AMG engine) using their tools and learning from Danny how to measure and what to look out for.

I don't have my own set of micrometres and bore gauges either and also don't have the space or time to also start assembling engines at home.

Headspec have 3 motors that they'll be doing for me so I'm happy to give them the full package from machining to assembly. This also protects me from any warranty issues (finger pointing when scope gets mixed up).


There is one thing I want to learn from them and that is how to correctly dial in the cams. So I'll be there while they dial it in so I understand exactly what goes on.

YouTube and reading just isn't the same.

This engine is going all the way and will be comprehensively measured and fully blueprinted.

So whilst they do the motors, gforce will look after fabrication work and I'll focus on the finished product and electronics.

Looks great Jay. Well suited.

When we gonna see this thing at a track? Keen to see it down the quarter or around some corners! Even a dyno day!

Sounds fairly standard.
Go get your tcu remapped. It'll make a world of a difference. Contact Aldo and he can sort you out.

These transmissions really need short shift durations and higher pressure shifts to feel right.

The fact that they try and keep em smooth doesn't work with what we want (performance).

The kick down to 3rd is OK. Just needs to grab faster that's all.

4th is known as the weak link. Hence the reason to kick down.

Nice!

Agree. But once again, that 170+ mph could potentially be 175+ mph.

I have run a factor VR4 aus spec manifold and made a healthy 330kw at the wheels. It was ported and extrude honed though...

My understanding is that once oil pressure is built up in the accumulator, it stores it for the next time you fire it up or when the engine pressure reduces below the accumulator pressure (10psi).

The accumulator has a valve so prior to shutdown, whilst pressure is built up in the accumulator with oil volume, the valve is closed. A other option is an electronic valve activated by a 12v signal. So, if a cold start for example, turn key on (12v ign power supplied), valve opens solenoid and releases oil into the engine galleries lubricating the bearings etc. Volume depletes in accumulator at that point. Then fire up, oil pressure builds as it operates simultaneously.

So you are right. It'll be sump volume plus accumulator volume each oil change.