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Slippery dip?

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13 replies to this topic

#1
CAM280

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Does anyone know how to diagnose a box on the bench? can you test solenoids? What would cause this scenario? Auto works all shift patterns work until it warms up and the accelerator is pressed a bit further, then slip slip slip. Doesn't even move just slips. But reverse is fine! go anywhere in reverse, lol.



#2
leadfoot

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soulnds like the clutch packs are shot


yes it's me KHUBNER


#3
CAM280

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I neglected to mention this occurred after a rebuild, everything new except bushes, converter and solenoids.

#4
BMGTZ

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oil pump clearances checked?


BRIAN
Black evo 1 full road rego and done properly/legally

I have heaps of parts...but never the one I need.

 

 


#5
CAM280

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No I didn't bother doing any of those measurements, one odd thing occurred was the end clutch pack had no play in it after the the new clutches went in, but thats got nothing to do with getting the car off the mark so ?



#6
Rockabilly

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Behind the pump is a brown fibre shim about 4mm thick

If it's not on, the main shaft will move in out 4 to 5mm

That will cause hubs to unengage 1 to 2 clutches

Always check that the shaft has 1-2mm max float only



#7
CAM280

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Thanks for the intelligence, I checked and the shaft float is in spec. 



#8
CAM280

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I was thinking it could be the torque converter, however after speaking to someone who works in the industry, he said it cant be the converter because it runs in reverse. 



#9
CAM280

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Clutch Slips In Drive  according to the  Dan's Transmission article

 

* Defective oil pump - Its not this one!

* Defective one-way clutch

* Defective Pressure Control Solenoid Valve (PCSV) on valve body or wiring circuit- can't be the problem if reverse works?

* Defective rear clutch

* Improper shift cable adjustment - Its not this one!

* Low fluid level - Its not this one!

* Low line pressure - I adjusted this one to IPT guy recommendations. 

* Malfunction in valve body - I checked this one 3 times even bought a new separator plate, cleaned and lubed the valves.


Edited by CAM280, 01 June 2017 - 12:58 AM.


#10
Rockabilly

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N on the shifter is N on the inhibitor ?



#11
CAM280

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Aldo, the time has come that I need your expertise! Could you please pm me so we can talk!

#12
CAM280

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Finally dug into the tranny after 6 months of doing other things. I found a torn seal ring which looks like it would explain the lack of fluid pressure. So fingers crossed, I got the converter looked at and no issues. Plus a bushing was badly worn so I replaced those parts and I'll be putting it back together in the next week. Those parts were directly above the first clutch pack, so it sort of makes sense from what I know which is very little. I'm guessing either the rough bushing grabbed the seal or I left the seal hanging out and it dislodged when I was installing the pump.

#13
CAM280

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So I started again and found out i never put a seal in under the seal that blew out go figure. A few minor adjustments and im all good but it will be a while before I trust my little beast. I guess I was that guy after all  :wacko:



#14
CAM280

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But wait there's more then for some weird idea possibly transmission fluid fumes I thought the sun gear floated in the planetary so I didn't put the bearing in and wow it grinded to a halt but I replaced those parts because I got a couple of spares 😂 and woohoo I've done my apprenticeship on the W4A33 tranny.


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