Jump to content

Welcome to 4GTuner
Register now to gain access to all of our features. Once registered and logged in, you will be able to create topics, post replies to existing threads, give reputation to your fellow members, get your own private messenger, post status updates, manage your profile and so much more. If you already have an account, login here - otherwise create an account for free today!

2001 Proton Satria GTi engine problem

- - - - -

  • Please log in to reply
23 replies to this topic



    Advanced Member

  • Active Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 9,808 posts
  • LocationBuddhist Temple NSW
What sort of dickhead would pay $175 for handbrake cables?
Thats extortionate.
[qoute name="BMGTZ" post="331212" timestamp="1467451744"]I don't know anything ...
Trust in the master of taxis.... He will set you straight[/quote]




  • Moderators
  • 3,415 posts
  • LocationGold Coast

holy fuck i know i needed one when i did my rear disk conversion (this was in 2010) which model of car did you ask for cables for? i know if you mention gti you'll be murdered for price. use satria xls

the dealership i bought my parts from no longer operates on the GC but i know i paid 60 bucks for it i did have to wait on it though.
grab the proton part number for it and see a mitsu dealer proton parts have the same part numbers as mitsu (they sometimes changed the MB to a proton specific letering but the numbers are the same for most parts.

yes it's me KHUBNER




  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 12 posts
  • LocationSydney

Hi guys.

My Tacho issues continue.

I think I have a faulty / intermittent ignition module.

I traced the white & black wire from the module to the dash (no breaks in any wires) but my tacho is still not functioning correctly.

Sometimes it works, sometimes not (more on the not side)

I purchased another complete WORKING dash ( I saw it working) yet I have the same issues.

I have set my multi meter to V~ 200, probed the WHITE module wire (red on meter and black on negative battery) and I was getting a reading of 01.2 to 01.3 on a cold engine (idling high of course) and it increased with engine revs and lowered to 00.8 at idle when engine was warm.

It seemed to be correctly showing my rpm.

I switched it off, called my son out to show him, started it up and it was all good.

Switched it off again and put the dash back in and the tacho wasn't working.

Now my reading is only 00.4 on idle, with or without the dash installed.

I did get a 00.8 at times but just a quick flicker, nothing constant.

The Black/white (VB switched 12v) is showing 13.5 v at idle and 12.45 with ignition on only so it's not a lack of voltage.

It seems the trigger inputs are only reading half of the expected rpm which isn't enough for the tacho to function.

I'm off to purchase a cheap Tacho from from Supercheap and see if that works.. if I find one cheap enough ...

I'll let you know the results.



jack be nimble

jack be nimble

    master of none

  • Donating Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 8,133 posts
  • Locationperth sor. 20 mins from brians place
Mine is the same. Gti dash in a jumbuck. But mine works more often than not. The tacho drives are basically as you say. They are the coil triggering voltage. In some cases (waste fire) they combine the 2 triggering voltages and send that to the tacho.
But, I was playing with a cb lancer, and you could definately get a tingle from the tacho wire. But, that tacho didn't work, so maybe it was a faulty tr unit also. I think it was around 50v ac in its tacho drive wire.

So, interested in your results.
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.

3 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 3 guests, 0 anonymous users