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Crimping vs soldering

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#21
leadfoot

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^ as above the reason you do this is to minimize the heat exposure of the wire since it's much quicker and easier to get the solder onto the wires individually once you have done this you can either add a touch more quickly as solder like to stick to solder or even pair the wire and quickly heat just enough to bond. i then to tin both wires pair them up and run a butane torch or the iron over the pair just enough to unset the solder the solder goes fluid bonds the wire and done good clean and small footprint solder conection


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#22
Evo-00x

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For permanent wiring I do exactly as how Jack described above (small amount of solder to paint onto both joining wire surfaces first, overlap them, then heat til they melt together. Then cover it with heat shrink.

If at a later date you need to remove that connection, simply cut off the heat shrink and melt the solder apart. It's not that hard to do. Don't people have the patience to work with solder anymore? :unsure:  IMO crimping is a PITA as it can cut the wires down to one strand inside and you wouldn't even know it. For temporary items, then yeah, splicing into the factory loom with a splicer/ crimp connection will do the job as long as it doesnt move all the time and can work its way loose. 


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#23
DOUGMO

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be honest, you are a scotch lock guy aren't you rob?


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#24
jack be nimble

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I actually often have a different technique. I dont tin. I push the 2 ends into each other, then wrap with a couple of strands of copper from a spare bit of wire, then solder the lot. In effect it makes the joint round rather than 2 tinned pieces layed together. Once this joint has heatshrink applied it is very neat, with no part any bigger than the size of the insulation. I wrap with the spare strands so the joint holds together till the solder sets, and no stray wires poke out like a burr.
its a painstaking connection, but is the neatest.

Edited by eJackulator, 04 August 2015 - 12:29 PM.

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#25
jack be nimble

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Pretty much like this:
http://m.instructabl...nline-Splicing/

but i wrap it to keep it all tight and together.
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.

#26
xjokux

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I used these http://toolguyd.com/wago-lever-nuts/

 

Bit expensive but well worth it. Especially for adding more grounds/power

 

Easy to remove or modify wiring and so simple yet quick to connect.


Edited by xjokux, 15 December 2015 - 10:03 PM.

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#27
evo-gsr

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I dont think thats expensive considering how easy they are to use.
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#28
jack be nimble

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I used these http://toolguyd.com/wago-lever-nuts/

Bit expensive but well worth it. Especially for adding more grounds/power

Easy to remove or modify wiring and so simple yet quick to connect.


you can get similar ones at jaycar. I have some pushin ones, but im sure there was reusable ones there also
4g93t jumbuck conversion. PRANGED 18/3/12, CHECK MY MEMBER RIDES Page 11. no serious human injuries.
ON THE ENGINE STAND. g4cs 2.4l + Gt35r. PLUS: auto conversion + Awd coming.
thanks for parts and help: BMGTZ, EVOCPE, cwolf, Benozi, Jamo-GSR, 1JUM2NV, RXVII..much appreciated, cheers guys.
Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. —Enzo Ferrari
REMEMBER: you cant polish a turd, but you can roll it in glitter.


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