Thought just popped into my head. If we ceramic coat exhaust to keep heat in, why not ceramic coat intakes to keep heat out? I can't think why this would not work to stop heat soak on a manifold. Then just add a thermal gasket to isolate it from the engine. Question is would it be worth it? How much heat does the air pick up as it passes through the manifold? If it would work you could also get really carried away and coat all of the post intercooler pipes as well. Just thinking out loud.
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Ceramic coated intake
#1
Posted 23 February 2014 - 07:43 PM
ECM Link, 399 MAF, 560cc injectors, 270 cams, TD05-20G @22psi, 3" dump, full 3" mandrel exhaust, intercooler, Fidanza alloy flywheel, 4 bolt LSD, EVO IV brakes, Strut braces, coil overs and sway bars.
#2
Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:28 PM
#3
Posted 23 February 2014 - 11:31 PM
I thought it would help with the high exhaust temps more than intake, also the cost vs. result would kind of make it pointless. It would look awesome though
I think it might have some merits in some systems, but a thermal spacer is better use of $ IMO, on saying that bear in mind that there is 2 gaskets that need to seal with a spacer adding to things that could go wrong.
There is a lot of anecdotal evidence regarding ceramic coatings reducing under bonnet temps and holding heat in with ex. mani., it does work in high heat applications, but as to the real figures I think it would be dependent on too
many variables. Ceramic coating spreads and evens the heat out across the surface it's attached to, that's why it's great for piston crowns with oil squirter delete.
I think there would be better places to spend money rather than getting proffesional coating the intake tract, however if you wanted to experiment maybe this stuff might do the trick as well as customise your engine bay, my 2c ↓
https://www.duplicol...ts/enginePaint/
Bit of a tool, and owner of "The Turdis" - Hervey Bay
#4
Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:02 AM
Interesting stuff ^
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#5
Posted 24 February 2014 - 03:22 AM
#6
Posted 24 February 2014 - 05:27 AM
I painted my manifold in that dupli color a few months back and its still in great condition
#7
Posted 24 February 2014 - 05:28 AM
#8
Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:24 AM
I thought it would help with the high exhaust temps more than intake, also the cost vs. result would kind of make it pointless. It would look awesome though
I think it might have some merits in some systems, but a thermal spacer is better use of $ IMO, on saying that bear in mind that there is 2 gaskets that need to seal with a spacer adding to things that could go wrong.There is a lot of anecdotal evidence regarding ceramic coatings reducing under bonnet temps and holding heat in with ex. mani., it does work in high heat applications, but as to the real figures I think it would be dependent on too
many variables. Ceramic coating spreads and evens the heat out across the surface it's attached to, that's why it's great for piston crowns with oil squirter delete.
I think there would be better places to spend money rather than getting proffesional coating the intake tract, however if you wanted to experiment maybe this stuff might do the trick as well as customise your engine bay, my 2c ↓
https://www.duplicol...ts/enginePaint/
It was a unlimited budget kinda thought. But if you could isolate the intake from engine bay heat, so it never gets hotter than the air going though it, that'd have to be worth a few ponies.
ECM Link, 399 MAF, 560cc injectors, 270 cams, TD05-20G @22psi, 3" dump, full 3" mandrel exhaust, intercooler, Fidanza alloy flywheel, 4 bolt LSD, EVO IV brakes, Strut braces, coil overs and sway bars.
#9
Posted 24 February 2014 - 09:08 AM
I also run a phenolic inlet gasket with sealant only, it all adds up
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#10
Posted 24 February 2014 - 09:23 AM
Those unlimited budget ideas are the ones that make good shit happen Never say never ← unless you end up using that expression, in which case you end up saying it twice
It would definitely help power production, cold air is dense air. It would be interesting to see air temp just after the intercooler and compare it to temp just before the TB to see how much heat soaks into the charge.
Bit of a tool, and owner of "The Turdis" - Hervey Bay
#11
Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:11 AM
It does make a difference, my intake pipes are all coated and the difference from coated, when you put your hand on them, to a standard painted or bare pipe is a huge difference.
The biggest thing Is keeping the air filter isolated from the engine bay temps.
You can loose something like 1% of power for every 7 Degrease rise in engine bay temperature.
#12
Posted 24 February 2014 - 07:58 PM
Exactly what I was thinking when I wrapped all my IC pipes in this heat reflecting tape and made the air box to isolate the intake. The biggest difference was in the hot side pipe. It used to be stupid hot after a normal drive soaking in the the heat coming off the turbo. To really get the exhaust heat under control, I eventually want to get the mainfold (a good equal length one rather than stock), the turbine housing and the dump all ceramic coated.
ECM Link, 399 MAF, 560cc injectors, 270 cams, TD05-20G @22psi, 3" dump, full 3" mandrel exhaust, intercooler, Fidanza alloy flywheel, 4 bolt LSD, EVO IV brakes, Strut braces, coil overs and sway bars.
#13
Posted 24 February 2014 - 10:15 PM
The biggest thing Is keeping the air filter isolated from the engine bay temps.
You can loose something like 1% of power for every 7 Degrease rise in engine bay temperature.
My rule of thumb is 2º drop in air temp is 1hp gain. That is fairly close to your guideline
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#14
Posted 26 February 2014 - 11:32 AM
- vr4_evopwr likes this
#15
Posted 26 February 2014 - 07:47 PM
#16
Posted 27 February 2014 - 10:28 AM
Yeah, that's stock routing. Moving it is something I've thought about. You would have to reposition the radiator, plus whatever else is in the way, to make the gap between the support panel and the radiator on the drivers side of the car so the pipes could be routed like an EVO. Then rather than a pipe going to the far side of the cooler, I'd get a two pass core. If the air has to go to the far side of the car, it might as well cool off on the way.
ECM Link, 399 MAF, 560cc injectors, 270 cams, TD05-20G @22psi, 3" dump, full 3" mandrel exhaust, intercooler, Fidanza alloy flywheel, 4 bolt LSD, EVO IV brakes, Strut braces, coil overs and sway bars.
#17
Posted 02 March 2014 - 01:56 AM
Yeah, that's stock routing. Moving it is something I've thought about. You would have to reposition the radiator, plus whatever else is in the way, to make the gap between the support panel and the radiator on the drivers side of the car so the pipes could be routed like an EVO. Then rather than a pipe going to the far side of the cooler, I'd get a two pass core. If the air has to go to the far side of the car, it might as well cool off on the way.
Just cut the support away , most of it around the rad is not structual to the chassis anyway , pretty shitty pic but thats how i can fit the cooler like this with shorter piping
Edited by croket, 02 March 2014 - 01:58 AM.
#18
Posted 02 March 2014 - 04:25 AM
#19
Posted 22 March 2014 - 07:21 AM
New set up coming
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